Skip to main content

Morning Overview

Twelve of Chaco Canyon’s largest buildings line up with the exact rhythms of the sun and moon

Twelve of the largest buildings the Chacoan people ever raised in the San Juan Basin of New Mexico share something no casual visitor would guess by looking at the ruins: every one of them is oriented to mark the extremes and midpoints of the sun’s and moon’s yearly and multi-year cycles. Eight sit inside Chaco Canyon itself; the other four are the largest of the outlying great houses the culture built across the wider region. Together their orientations, their internal geometry, and the lines connecting them form a deliberate pattern stretching across roughly 5,000 square kilometers of high desert.

The research behind that claim comes from the Solstice Project, an interdisciplinary team of archaeologists, archaeoastronomers and geodesists founded in 1978 by Anna Sofaer, and published in her 2007 study “The Primary Architecture of the Chacoan Culture.” It is not a claim about a handful of coincidental doorways facing the right direction. It describes a repeated, testable pattern across a dozen separate construction projects, built over more than a century, by people who apparently never lost track of where the sun and moon would be.

Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl Sit East-West of Each Other by Design

Inside the canyon, the pattern centers on the two largest structures ever built there. Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl, the biggest of Chaco’s great houses, sit almost exactly east-west of one another at the base of the canyon’s steepest cliffs. Perpendicular to that line, Pueblo Alto and Tsin Kletzin form a north-south axis positioned on two of the highest points of the surrounding mesas, splitting the east-west distance between the first two buildings almost evenly. The Solstice Project’s published research names those four explicitly among the twelve; the remaining four buildings inside the canyon and three of the four outlying great houses are not individually listed on the project’s public research page, though Chimney Rock Pueblo, a Chacoan outpost built on a precipice in southwestern Colorado roughly 140 kilometers from the canyon, is identified as one of the four largest outlying structures.

One of Chaco’s primary roads reinforces the same geometry rather than simply connecting settlements. The Great North Road runs about 50 kilometers north from the canyon’s central complex across open ground before descending into a badlands canyon, a route the Solstice Project’s research concludes was built to commemorate the relationship between Chaco’s center and celestial north rather than to serve any obvious travel purpose.

Anna Sofaer Found the Mechanism on Fajada Butte in 1977

The discovery that anchors this whole body of research happened almost by accident. Sofaer was volunteering to record rock art in Chaco Canyon in 1977 when she photographed petroglyphs on a southeast-facing cliff near the top of Fajada Butte, a sandstone formation rising 135 meters above the canyon floor. Three large stone slabs leaned against the cliff there, and on a return visit she watched a narrow blade of sunlight cut through the center of one of two spiral carvings on the rock face — a formation now known as the Sun Dagger.

Later analysis, published by Sofaer and collaborator R.M. Sinclair, showed the light dagger was no accident of erosion. The same three slabs also cast shadows that mark the winter solstice, both equinoxes, and the two extremes of the moon’s roughly 18.6-year standstill cycle, each shadow falling exactly along grooves pecked into the rock to record it.

A Blade of Light Crosses the Spiral at 11:15 A.M.

At the summer solstice, the dagger of light bisects the larger spiral petroglyph at approximately 11:15 in the morning, a specific enough event that early observers could time it against a clock. At the moon’s minor standstill, a shadow bisects the same spiral just as the moon rises; at the major standstill, roughly nine and a half years later, the shadow instead falls along the spiral’s left edge. Anthropologist Alfonso Ortiz, a member of Ohkay Owingeh and one of the Pueblo scholars consulted by the Solstice Project, described the site as one where Chacoans would have gathered “praying, meditating, leaving offerings and making observations,” and called it “a center of time on a high butte.”

Ortiz also anticipated a finding the Solstice Project would confirm only after his observation: watching photographs of the solar markings in 1978, before lunar markings at the site had been documented, he predicted that wherever the sun was marked, the moon would be marked too, reasoning from Pueblo tradition that the two bodies were held as spiritual counterparts.

A 1989 Rockslide Shifted One Slab, and the Precision Never Returned

The Sun Dagger site no longer works quite the way it did when Sofaer first photographed it. In 1989, erosion caused by the foot traffic of visitors and researchers was found to have shifted one of the three screening slabs out of its original position, throwing off the alignment that had produced the light dagger at the exact center of the spiral. The National Park Service stabilized the stones the following year but never attempted to move the wayward slab back, and the site has been closed to public access since the 1980s specifically to prevent further disturbance.

What that leaves unresolved is not whether the twelve buildings and the Sun Dagger were connected by design — the Solstice Project’s inter-building measurements settle that on their own — but how many similar markers existed elsewhere across the same 5,000-square-kilometer pattern, in structures that eroded, collapsed, or were never mapped with the same care Sofaer brought to a single cliff face in 1977.

This article was produced with the assistance of AI and reviewed by Morning Overview editors prior to publication.


More from Morning Overview