Hidden “vampire” loads from everyday electronics can quietly inflate your electricity bill even when you think everything is off. By focusing on how specific gadgets draw standby power or run inefficiently, it becomes easier to target the worst offenders first. Below are 20 common devices that often waste energy in the background, along with practical ways to tame their appetite without giving up the convenience they provide.
1. Smart TV with always-on standby
A smart TV with always-on standby keeps parts of its circuitry active so it can listen for voice commands, respond to HDMI-CEC signals, and load streaming apps quickly. That convenience means the power supply, network chip, and sometimes the microphone array continue to draw current even when the screen is dark. Over a full year, that low but constant draw can add up, especially if you own multiple large 4K sets in different rooms.
To cut the hidden cost of a smart TV, I look for an energy-saving mode that disables quick start and background app refresh, then pair the set with a master switch or smart plug. Using a timed power strip lets me shut down standby power overnight without losing settings. For households that stream heavily, choosing a model with a low standby rating and an Energy Star label can trim long term operating costs without sacrificing picture quality.
2. Game console left in “rest mode”
A game console left in “rest mode” or “instant-on” can quietly sip power around the clock to download updates, charge controllers, and keep system memory primed. Modern systems like the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X are designed for fast resume, so their network and storage subsystems remain partially active. That design reduces waiting time for players, but it also means the console behaves more like a small computer than a fully powered-down appliance.
To keep a console from quietly spiking my bill, I dig into its power settings and disable automatic downloads or instant-on features that are not essential. Using a switched outlet or surge protector lets me cut power completely when I know I will not be gaming for a while. The trade-off is a slightly longer boot time, but the savings can be meaningful in homes with multiple consoles or kids who rarely shut systems down properly.
3. Cable or satellite TV box
A cable or satellite TV box is one of the classic “vampire” devices because it often draws nearly the same power whether it is on or off. The internal tuner, hard drive, and decryption hardware are designed to stay ready for channel changes and scheduled recordings. Even when the front panel shows a standby light, the box may continue to spin its drive and maintain a constant connection to the provider’s network.
Since many boxes lack a true low-power mode, I rely on an external solution like an advanced power strip that cuts power when the TV is off. Some providers now offer more efficient IP-based boxes or apps that run on smart TVs and streaming sticks, which can reduce the number of separate units in a home. Consolidating services onto fewer devices is one of the simplest ways to shrink the background load from pay-TV hardware.
4. Always-plugged laptop charger
An always-plugged laptop charger can draw power even when the computer is not connected, because its transformer stays energized as long as it is in the wall. The idle draw is small for a single adapter, but many households have several bricks for work laptops, gaming notebooks, and older machines that rarely leave a drawer. Over time, that cluster of chargers becomes a quiet but persistent contributor to baseline electricity use.
To reduce that waste, I unplug chargers when they are not in use or plug them into a smart strip that shuts off automatically. When replacing a laptop, I also pay attention to the efficiency rating of the new power adapter, since higher efficiency means less energy lost as heat. Small habits like charging during the day and disconnecting at night can keep convenience high while trimming the slow drip of standby power.
5. Desktop computer and gaming PC
A desktop computer and gaming PC can be one of the largest non-appliance loads in a home, especially when equipped with high-end graphics cards and multiple monitors. Even at idle, a powerful tower can draw tens of watts to keep fans, memory, and background processes running. If it is left on around the clock for downloads, remote access, or simple forgetfulness, that idle time can dominate its total energy use.
To keep a PC from quietly inflating my bill, I enable aggressive sleep settings and use power plans that throttle performance when full speed is not needed. Shutting down or hibernating overnight, rather than leaving the system at the desktop, can save more than tweaking a few software settings. For gamers, choosing efficient components and a high-efficiency power supply reduces waste heat and noise while also lowering the long term cost of ownership.
6. Wi-Fi router and mesh network nodes
A Wi-Fi router and mesh network nodes run 24 hours a day, which makes their modest power draw more significant over a full year. Each access point contains radios, processors, and sometimes USB ports that stay active to maintain coverage and handle smart home traffic. As households add mesh nodes to eliminate dead zones, the total energy footprint of the network quietly grows.
Because connectivity is essential, I do not simply unplug networking gear, but I do look for efficient models with low idle consumption. Some routers offer scheduled Wi-Fi off times, which can cut radio use overnight without affecting wired connections. Placing nodes strategically so fewer units are needed, and disabling unused features like guest networks, helps keep the convenience of whole-home coverage without unnecessary power use.
7. Smart speaker and voice assistant
A smart speaker and voice assistant, such as an Amazon Echo or Google Nest Audio, constantly listen for wake words, which means their microphones and processors never fully sleep. That always-on design enables hands-free control of lights, music, and information, but it also locks in a continuous power draw. As more rooms gain their own speakers, the cumulative effect on a home’s baseline load becomes harder to ignore.
To manage that impact, I group smart speakers on a single strip so I can cut power in spaces where voice control is rarely needed at night. Some models include low-power modes or options to disable certain features, which can trim consumption without losing core functionality. Being selective about where I place assistants, rather than scattering them everywhere by default, keeps the benefits while limiting the quiet drain on my bill.
8. Smart plugs and connected outlets
Smart plugs and connected outlets are designed to save energy by automating shutoffs, yet each one contains electronics that draw power continuously. The Wi-Fi or Zigbee radio, microcontroller, and status LEDs all stay active so the plug can respond to app commands and schedules. In isolation, that draw is small, but a home filled with dozens of smart plugs can end up with a noticeable background load.
To ensure smart plugs are a net benefit, I reserve them for higher draw devices and check their standby usage before buying. Using a single smart power strip for a cluster of electronics is often more efficient than multiple individual plugs. I also prune unused or redundant devices from my network, since every idle plug that no longer controls anything still quietly adds to the monthly bill.
9. Old refrigerator in the garage
An old refrigerator in the garage is one of the most expensive “convenience” appliances to keep running, especially if it predates modern efficiency standards. Aging compressors, worn door seals, and poor insulation force the unit to cycle more often, and hot garage temperatures make it work even harder. Compared with a newer Energy Star model, an older fridge can use several hundred extra kilowatt-hours per year.
Before keeping a second fridge, I check its estimated annual use with a simple calculator and compare that cost to the value of the extra storage. In many cases, consolidating food into a single efficient refrigerator or replacing the garage unit with a modern one pays back quickly. If I must keep it, cleaning coils and ensuring good airflow can at least keep the waste from climbing even higher.
10. Chest freezer or upright freezer
A chest freezer or upright freezer provides valuable backup storage, but it also runs continuously, which makes its efficiency rating crucial. Upright models are easier to organize but typically lose more cold air when opened, while chest freezers tend to be more efficient but bulkier. In both cases, poor placement near heat sources or in unconditioned spaces can drive up energy use.
To keep a freezer from quietly spiking my bill, I verify that it meets current efficiency standards and keep it reasonably full so the thermal mass stabilizes temperature. I also avoid setting the thermostat colder than necessary and defrost manual units regularly to maintain good heat transfer. For households that rarely use their freezer, unplugging it seasonally or downsizing to a smaller model can yield meaningful savings without sacrificing food safety.
11. Heated towel rail or bathroom heater
A heated towel rail or bathroom heater often runs longer than intended, especially when controlled by a simple on/off switch rather than a timer. These resistive heaters convert electricity directly into heat, so their power draw can rival a small space heater even when the room feels only mildly warm. Because they are tucked into bathrooms, it is easy to forget they are still on after a shower.
To limit their impact, I install programmable timers or thermostats so the heater runs only during specific windows. Choosing lower wattage models and insulating the bathroom well can reduce the need for constant heating. I also make a habit of checking indicator lights before leaving the house, since a heater left on all day can quietly add a surprising amount to the monthly bill.
12. Electric space heater
An electric space heater is one of the most power-hungry gadgets in a home, often drawing 1,500 watts or more whenever it is running. Used strategically, it can reduce central heating needs in a single room, but left on for long stretches it can quickly drive up consumption. Small, portable units are easy to overlook, which makes accidental all-day operation a common problem.
To keep a space heater from quietly dominating my bill, I rely on models with built-in thermostats and automatic shutoff features. I also limit use to occupied rooms and avoid using heaters to compensate for poor insulation or drafty windows. Addressing the underlying building issues, such as sealing gaps and adding weatherstripping, often delivers more lasting comfort at a lower long term energy cost.
13. Electric water heater
An electric water heater cycles on and off throughout the day to maintain a set tank temperature, which means it draws power even when no one is using hot water. Older, poorly insulated tanks lose heat faster, forcing more frequent reheating. High temperature settings also increase standby losses, since the difference between tank and room temperature is greater.
To reduce that constant draw, I lower the thermostat to a safe but efficient level and wrap the tank with an insulating blanket if it is in an unconditioned space. Installing low-flow showerheads and fixing leaky faucets cuts the volume of hot water needed, which reduces how often the heater must run. For some homes, a heat pump water heater can significantly cut electricity use while still delivering reliable hot water.
14. Bathroom fan with always-on humidity sensor
A bathroom fan with an always-on humidity sensor can run longer than necessary if the sensor is overly sensitive or poorly calibrated. While ventilation is important for preventing mold, a fan that continues for hours after a shower quietly adds to electricity use. In some setups, the fan is also tied to lighting circuits, which encourages people to leave it running whenever the room is occupied.
To balance air quality and efficiency, I adjust the fan’s controls so it shuts off after a reasonable delay and verify that the sensor is not triggering from minor humidity changes. Upgrading to an efficient, low-noise model can reduce power draw while still clearing moisture effectively. I also encourage shorter showers and open doors after use, which helps the room dry faster and reduces the need for extended fan operation.
15. Aquarium heater and pump
An aquarium heater and pump run nearly nonstop to maintain water temperature and circulation, which makes them a steady contributor to household energy use. Tropical fish often require specific temperature ranges, so the heater cycles frequently, especially in cooler rooms. The pump, filters, and lighting add their own continuous loads, turning a modest hobby into a quiet but persistent draw.
To keep an aquarium from spiking my bill, I choose efficient heaters sized correctly for the tank and insulate the back or sides to reduce heat loss. Using LED lighting and energy-efficient pumps can further trim consumption without compromising water quality. I also place tanks away from drafts and exterior doors, since stable room temperatures reduce how hard the heater must work to keep fish healthy.
16. Laser printer and office equipment
A laser printer and other office equipment, such as scanners and copiers, often stay in a ready state so they can wake quickly for jobs. The fuser in a laser printer, which heats toner onto paper, is particularly energy intensive, and keeping it warm for instant printing can draw significant standby power. In home offices that grew during remote work, multiple devices may sit idle yet energized for most of the day.
To curb that waste, I enable deep sleep modes and automatic power-down timers on printers and related gear, then verify they still meet my workflow needs. Consolidating functions into a single multifunction device can reduce the number of always-ready machines. I also plug nonessential office electronics into a switched strip so I can cut power completely at the end of the workday without unplugging each item individually.
17. Clothes dryer with electronic controls
A clothes dryer with electronic controls can draw power even when it is not actively drying, because its display, sensors, and control board remain energized. While that standby load is smaller than the energy used during a cycle, frequent use and long idle periods can make it a noticeable contributor. Vent blockages or over-drying settings also extend run times, which compounds the overall impact on the bill.
To manage this, I clean the lint filter and vent regularly so the dryer operates efficiently and finishes cycles faster. Using moisture-sensing modes instead of timed drying prevents unnecessary extra minutes of operation. When shopping for a new unit, I look for efficient models and consider heat pump dryers, which use significantly less electricity than traditional vented designs while still delivering good performance.
18. Electric oven and induction cooktop standby
An electric oven and induction cooktop often include digital clocks, touch controls, and Wi-Fi modules that stay powered continuously. These features enable remote monitoring, precise timers, and smart home integration, but they also create a small yet constant standby load. Over years of daily use, that background consumption adds to the already high energy cost of cooking with electricity.
To limit the quiet drain, I disable unnecessary smart features and use manual timers or phone apps when possible. Keeping oven seals in good condition and avoiding preheating longer than needed reduces active cooking energy as well. For households that cook frequently, pairing efficient cookware with induction and using smaller appliances like toaster ovens for light tasks can significantly reduce overall kitchen electricity use.
19. Phone chargers and USB power bricks
Phone chargers and USB power bricks are easy to overlook, yet many remain plugged in around the house even when no devices are attached. Each adapter contains a small transformer that draws a trickle of power whenever it is connected to an outlet. Individually the impact is minor, but a collection of chargers for phones, tablets, earbuds, and wearables can create a constant low-level load.
To keep that from quietly spiking my bill, I centralize charging in one area and plug all adapters into a single switched strip. Unplugging or switching off the strip when everything is charged eliminates idle draw without hunting for individual bricks. I also favor high quality, efficient chargers that meet modern standards, since they typically waste less energy as heat and are safer for long term use.
20. Outdoor string lights and garden gadgets
Outdoor string lights and garden gadgets, such as decorative path lights, pond pumps, and powered ornaments, often run for long evening hours or even all night. Many are controlled by simple mechanical timers or left on manual switches, which makes it easy to forget about their cumulative impact. Weather exposure can also degrade components, causing pumps or transformers to run less efficiently over time.
To rein in their consumption, I switch to LED string lights and use photocell or smart timers that limit operation to necessary hours. For ponds and fountains, I choose efficient pumps sized correctly for the feature rather than overspecifying flow. Periodic maintenance, such as cleaning filters and checking for leaks, keeps outdoor systems running smoothly so they deliver ambiance and function without quietly inflating the electricity bill.
More from MorningOverview